By Daisy Viktoria

You will need:

• Fabric – amount determined below

• Zipper

• Thread

• Tape measure or yard stick

Step 1. Determine how much fabric you need.

Measure the length of your skirt. Measure around your waist or hips, wherever you want the skirt to sit. Multiply this number by 3, and that is how much width of fabric you need. For example, if I want my skirt to sit where I am 28 inches around, I need 28x3=84 inches.

Most fabric comes in 58–60 inch widths, but some local fabric stores carry more of 44 inches. With an 84 inch measurement, either type would dictate that I need two pieces since I can only get half of my width cut at once. (84/2=42, which fits onto 44 or 60 inch fabric) I’ll also account for seam allowance, about 2 inches total, and my fabric still fits on the same layout, with each piece measuring 43 inches.

Now, remember that length measurement? Good. For this example, let’s say I want my skirt to be 20 inches long. Add another 1.5 inches for hem and seam allowance. Since I need two widths of fabric, and each needs to be 21.5 inches long, I need 43 inches of fabric. That’s one yard plus 7 inches. Add several inches for a waistband, and I’ll just buy 1.5 yards to be sure.

Step 2. Cut out the pieces.

Take your waist (or where your skirt will sit) measurement, and add about 2 inches. In this example, 28+2=30. This is how long your waistband should be. Cut a strip of that length and about 5 inches tall. After sewing, this will create about a 2 inch tall waistband. You can change the height of your waistband if you’d like.

Now take those fabric width measurements you did in step one. To cut the skirt pieces, you need your length plus 1.5 inches x half of your total width. So, for the example, 21.5 inches in length x 43 inches in width.

Step 3. Sew and hem the skirt.

Before pleating, you should hem your skirt. Before you can hem, you need to attach the two skirt pieces together. Join them with right sides together, and press the seam.

To hem, fold the bottom edge of the skirt over twice and stitch in place.

Step 4. Pleat the skirt.

Decide how wide you want your pleats. The width is entirely up to you, as it does not change any of our calculations or construction methods. If you’re using plaid or stripes, it’s really easy to choose a width that correlates with the pattern.

Measure your pleat width on the fabric, and bring the fabric over itself as shown in the image. You should come out with 1/3 the width you started with, which is the measurement you wanted.

For more help with pleating, as well as images not drawn in Paint, see http://www.elizabethancostume.net/pleats/

Step 5. Attach the waistband.

Sew one side of the waistband onto the top edge of the pleated skirt, right sides together. Fold the waistband over and attach it so that it envelops the top of the skirt.

Step 6.  Install the zipper.

Measure how far down the skirt you need the zipper to attach. Below here, stitch the skirt together into a tube. Above here, finish the edges with a small hem.

Using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, sew the zipper into the back of the skirt.

Step 7. Finish and wear.

Make sure you are happy with your skirt, and clean up anything that needs adjustment, cut off any excess threads, etc. Then put on your skirt and look pretty!